Texas Classic Chevy Experience: June 2016

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Tri-Five Heat and Sound Insulation Installation

1955, 1956, 1957 Chevy Heat and Sound Insulation Installation

-Alan Arnell

If you live in the warmer parts of the World you want to have A/C in your Classic Chevy. However, once an A/C unit is installed to benefit from it more completely you will need to insulate the interior of you now cooler Classic. Another, benefit of installing insulation is it will also insulate the outside sounds, making your music, conversation and in some cases sanity all the better.

The way to solve the problem of a hot and noisy classic is to place some type of insulation or an insulation kit in that classic. The insulation will keep the heat out, keep your air conditioning in and will greatly reduce exhaust, road, engine, rear end noise and vibration as well. Many brands of insulation come with a super easy to install self-adhesive that will stick to any interior surface you apply it to. The best insulation will be made with butyl and aluminum with around 1/16” total thickness. The thinner the insulation mat the easier it will be to install into tight cavities. I would look for 3.6 insulating power.

Tools needed: Scissors and Knife

Steps to complete:

The floor in Tri-Five Chevys is fairly flat and is pretty easy to cover with floor insulation. Try to cover every inch of the floor with mat to help keep the heat and noise out.
I have never done my top of my car because of the cost involved with removing and replacing the headliner, however over 50% of heat and sound enter the car can come from the roof.

A putty knife and elbow grease is the way to remove old top insulation. The removal of the roof material will make a big mess. It is recommended to complete the top with insulation before the floor is done in your Tri-Five Chevy.
1/16” insulation thickness is really best in insulating the roof as the 1/16” material is usually thinner than the original insulation, fighting off most clearance issues with the headliner support wires
In areas where the insulation needs to be trimmed, a pair of kitchen scissors will do the trick.

To complete the floor, start at the center of the car and work your way out to the rocker panels. Save any cut scraps, as they can be used to fill in small, yet to be covered, areas on the floor. A carpet or box knife can be used to cut the holes in the floor for the shifter hole, seat belt brackets, etc.
Starting at the forward toe boards work you way to the rear of the car. Sections of insulation will need to be cut to fill in the area in the front of the rear seat riser and to the inner rockers.

A wedge of insulation can be cut from scrap to fill the area between the toe board and transmission tunnel.

Cover the area under the rear seat.
I placed insulation in the inner skin and behind the door upholstery panels. However, it is best to place the insulation on the inner skin of each door panel. I later went in and add additional insulation to the inn door outside panels. Wear long sleeves to keep from slicing up your arms placing the insulation through the access openings of the inner door panel. It is easier to fold the cut to shape insulation while passing it through the door access panels.

Take out the back dash upholstery and insulate the package deck metal. Use a carpet knife to trim around the speaker holes and back glass.
Using card board or ¼’ plywood dive the space between the passenger area and the trunk, then cover the area behind the back seat with insulation. This divider of the passenger and trunk areas well help seal heat and noise from the trunk.
The last step is to enjoy a more quieter and cooler Classic Car.

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My winning Peal Out at the 2011 Lone Star Classic Convention in Dallas

Texas Classic Chevy Experience will post blogs about: Hot Rods, Chevy, Chevrolet, Drag Racing, Car Shows, Classic Cars, Custom Cars, Muscle Cars, How to Tech. posts, Dallas Area Classic Chevy Club, Texas Muscle Car Challenge, Tri-Five Nationals, Lone Star Chevy Convention, Classic Car lists, Classic car links, Spotters guides, Car Shows, Swap meets, Book reviews and More.

LINK to where it all began at post number 1, " Texas Classic Chevy Experience-The Beginning"

LINK TO NORTH TEXAS CAR SHOWS AND EVENTS

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A Great Tri5 Chat Board

http://www.trifive.com

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#TriFive

#Chevy #Belair

#Musclecar #HotRod #V8

#StreetRod #DragRacing #55Chevy

#56Chevy #57Chevy #nomad #sedandelivery #ChevyTruck #truck #wagon #corvette #Classicchevy #ClassicCar #Chevy150 #Chevy210 #Carshow #Custom #Chevrolet

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#55Belair #56Belair #57Belair #57hardtop #57ragtop #blower #hemi #convertible #1950s #restoration #custompaint #classics #cars #FastNLoud GasMonkeyGarage #americangraffiti #americana #vintage #Texas #TexasClassicChevyExperience #Patina #carphotography #oldcar #chev #chopped #hotrodart #greaserlife #Rockabilly #concours #hamb #horsepower #vintagecars #oldschool #dragstrip #nostalgia #retro #nostalgiadrags #kustom #Mooneyes

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Saturday, June 25, 2016

The Perfect Starter Engine for Bracket Racing A Classic 1957 Chevy

How To Build The Perfect Bracket Engine For A Classic Chevy

-Alan Arnell

One of my day dreams is to build a Tri-Five Chevy Bracket Race Car. As a first bracket racer, I would choose the small block Chevy engine. What I ponder is what would be the best compression ration for my combination? What type of fuel would be necessary? Depending on the size of the combustion chamber, deck height and gasket thickness what type of piston compression ratio should I use, as my choices, as I believe, is 8.8 to 10.5:1. What would be the best combination? What are the general guideline or rules of thumb based 10.5:1 on camshaft overlap or some other factors?

This is what I found suggested for just what I am look for in a bracket race motor:

When choosing compression ratio, you can never have enough. That said, you want to run as much compression as you combination will tolerate. The higher compression ratios, you are able to extract more heat (power) out of given amount of fuel. The combustion efficiency goes up and with that comes the power. The rule of thumb based on overlap is don’t run a RV-type camshaft with 12.5:1 compression. The engine would be detonation-limited. As for combustion it is recommended to go with the most compression you can build with you components. Assuming that you are going to run a camshaft in the 220-240 duration range at 0.050-inch lift. This will work well with a 10.5:1 compression.

As for fuel it was suggested to start with 92-octane gas with a conservative amount of spark advance (28 degrees total). Keep advancing the spark and stop when detonation.is present to tune your engine.

A great combination could be a 350 ci small-block engine at 9.0:1, with dart 220 heads and a flat-topped camshaft that would have the potential to produce 500 hp on 92-octane fuel. Wit a Tri- Five ‘57 Chevy the ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 3800 pounds and HP of 500 is 11.45 seconds and MPH of 118.01 MPH. That would be perfect for my first truly purpose built bracket racer. With a Turbo 400 and 4.10:1 rear gears I bet I would be a force to reckoned with on the ¼ mile local tracks if the ⅛ mile tracks as well!

A LINK to a ET-MPH Calculator

Check out http://www.maxcacklephotos.com/ racing photos

FREE HOT ROD eBOOK

If you like stories about fast cars & hot women check it out.

LINK

LINK TO NORTH TEXAS CAR SHOWS AND EVENTS

Subscribe to Texas Classic Chevy Experience

LINK to General Information for Texas Classic Chevy Experience

!!!Support Texas Classic Experience!!!

Every view and like of my site helps!

Don’t forget to visit and like Texas Classic Experience on FaceBook: LINK to FaceBook

My winning Peal Out at the 2011 Lone Star Classic Convention in Dallas

Texas Classic Chevy Experience will post blogs about: Hot Rods, Chevy, Chevrolet, Drag Racing, Car Shows, Classic Cars, Custom Cars, Muscle Cars, How to Tech. posts, Dallas Area Classic Chevy Club, Texas Muscle Car Challenge, Tri-Five Nationals, Lone Star Chevy Convention, Classic Car lists, Classic car links, Spotters guides, Car Shows, Swap meets, Book reviews and More.

LINK to where it all began at post number 1, " Texas Classic Chevy Experience-The Beginning"

LINK TO NORTH TEXAS CAR SHOWS AND EVENTS

*********************

A Great Tri5 Chat Board

http://www.trifive.com

~~~~

*********************************************************************************************************

TO MAKE A SMALLER URL: https://bitly.com/ or http://tinyurl.com/

Texas Classic Experience Blog @ http://bit.ly/1KQv5Rn

Texas Classic Chevy Experience Blog @ http://www.texasclassicchevyexperience.com/

#TriFive

#Chevy #Belair

#Musclecar #HotRod #V8

#StreetRod #DragRacing #55Chevy

#56Chevy #57Chevy #nomad #sedandelivery #ChevyTruck #truck #wagon #corvette #Classicchevy #ClassicCar #Chevy150 #Chevy210 #Carshow #Custom #Chevrolet

#Chevy350 #Chevy283 #Chevy454 #Chevy327 #ChevyLS

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Wednesday, June 22, 2016

DACC Featured on "The Car Guy Show" KTXD-Channel 47

Dallas Area Classic Chevy Club Was On TV!

-Alan Arnell

On June 18th of this year 2016, my car club was featured on Channel 47-KTXD-TV's "The Car Guy Show " The show's program was filled with excellent video of  '55, '56, '57 Chevys that was filmed at the club's 40th ANNIVERSARY Show held on May 19, 2016  

Here is a link to a blog post I wrote and posted with pictures covering

the DACC 40th Anniversary show:

LINK to 2016 40th Anniversary Show

Check the show out below or use the link listed below to see some great cars 

and an excellent-out of this world car show!   

Link to youtube:https://youtu.be/k4cowqIfqwg

KTXD-TV, virtual channel 47 (UHF digital channel 47-1), is an independent television station serving the Dallas–Fort Worth Metroplex that is licensed to Greenville, Texas, United States. It serves as the flagship station of the London Broadcasting Company. KTXD maintains studio facilities and offices located on Dallas Parkway (west of the Dallas North Tollway) in Addison, and its transmitter is located south of Belt Line Road in Cedar Hill. On cable, the station is available on Time Warner Cable channel 24 and in high definition on HD channels 24 and 1289, Charter Communications channel 22 and Verizon FiOS channels 18 and 518.

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Engine Building for Power and Gas Mileage

The Perfect Hot Rod/Mileage Maker Engine for Your Classic Car

-Alan Arnell

I have been thinking about engine camshafts and I wonder what exactly kills gas mileage? Is it total seat duration, duration at 0.050 inch, valve overlap, valve-timing relationships in general, or what? My mind went further to ponder what causes an engine to be poor on gas mileage? Is it too little low-end torque? What could it be? I mean, I think I know that the bigger cams kill gas mileage but exactly what and how? What would be the perfect cam for a hot daily driver?

Here is what I researched and found out about finding that happy medium between horsepower and gas mileage:

First, the most important thing to help get good fuel economy is lower engine speeds. Bottom line the fewer times the engine breathes in fresh air and fuel, the less it will burn. Getting good fuel mileage is all about making good torque at engine speed it uses running down the road. This is expressed in “road-load horsepower.” Most Classic V-8s run at highway speeds of three to four thousand RPM’s Thus, that is why those cars only get 12 to 18 miles per gallon. Since cars of the 2000 era were tested for emissions at 55 mph hour those engines were engineered to run at the most efficiency at 55 mph.

Side bar: I don’t know how it is in you neck of the woods but in Dallas if you drive 55 on the freeway you will get run over. I drive on average five miles over the speed limit and have to stay in the slow lane! I think if I were to build an engine I would have the “road-load horsepower” set to cruise at 70 miles per hour. Just saying.

If you convert the “road-load horsepower” number into torque at operating RPM, it will give you an idea of the torque required to get down the road. For example, an engine running down the road at three-thousand RPM only takes around 28 to 42 lb-ft to keep going 55 mph. If you lower the engine speed to 1500 RPMs, the torque needed jumps to 56 to 84 lb-ft. Now you can see why it’s so important to have excellent part-throttle torque.

Creating part-throttle torque requires a combination of the correct-size intake parts and primary header and correct compression ratio spark advance along with camshaft timing. Where the camshaft comes into play is in the overlap cycle and how it affects cylinder pressure. When an engine has more overlap, this increases overlap airflow. This is when the exhaust system aids in starting the intake flow. When the engine has a high overlap flow, the intake charge can flow right through the chamber and out the exhaust. High overlap also allows the vacuum in the intake system to draw exhaust back into the intake system at slow engine speed. This dilutes the inlet charge with the exhaust that can’t burn again. This is what is called “built-in EGR.” Thus-performance engines several year ago were able to pass emissions without the use of a EGR system.

The intake valve closing point is very critical in building low-speed torque. This point is critical in building cylinder pressure. If the engine can close the intake valve early (advanced), it gives the cylinder more crankshaft degrees to build cylinder pressure. If you close the intake valve later the engine will have lower cylinder pressure. When the engine closes the valve early it will rock you torque curve to produce higher slow-speed torque or the expense of higher RPM power This is where the balancing act comes into play.

Smaller engines produce better fuel economy numbers because of their smaller displacement. This is also at the expense of high power levels. Although you gain with smaller engine with lower frictional losses, and you can make better horsepower per cubic inch, this rarely makes up the difference for the larger displacement engines.

That being said, to build a performance/mileage monster, the engine must hav EFI. This delivers all the benefits that the OEMs have grow to love including accurate fuel/air metering at low engine speeds. It is very difficult to produce correct air/fuel ratios with a carburetor at lower revs with performance engines. It would be best to build a 350 over to a 383. Go with the highest flowing, smallest intake-port aluminum cylinder head you can afford. Use 1 ⅝-inch primary tube headers and a good performance dual exhaust. Run you compression ration in the 10.0-10.5:1 range.

For the camshaft, it is suggested to keep the 0.050-inch tappet lift duration numbers in the mid to high 210s on the exhaust side. It is a must that the engine run a hydraulic roller design. You will be leaving too much on the table if you do not . Use a lobe separation angle of 112 degrees and an intake centerline of 107 to 109 degrees. With the above engine package, running the engine between 1.600 to 1,800 rpm will yield a low -to-mid 20-mpg potential. This engine will also build 400 to 425 hp and 420 to 430 lb-ft of torque. This will give you a very good performance car and give you your dual-purpose hot rod.

Wow, no wonder I could not get that engineering degree! To do this I would have to lose my 3:42 rear gear and my Borg-Warner 4 speed. More to think about.