Monday, November 30, 2015

Power Booster Conversion Tri-Five Late Model Part 2




Power to the Front Move to a Dual Purpose MC and Disk Brakes Front Disc Brakes for a Tri-Five Classic Chevy

-Alan Arnell
I am still researching about my upgrade from a single master Cylinder (MC) non power Master Cylinder (MC) front drum brakes to a power boosted dual MC with front disc brakes.  After my last research, I had several questions about the research up to the point of the last blog.  In this series of blogs I will address further the installation of the dual MC and proportioning valve. And, steps to install front disc brakes.
Denny Williams had completed a better list of rotors and calipers which can be used:
  • 69-74 Chevy Nova
  • 70-72 Monte Carlo
  • 69-72 Chevelle
  • 69-72 Pontiac Grand Prix & GTO
  • 69-72 Pontiac Tempest
  • 69-72 Buick-Skylark, Grand Sport, Apollo, Sport Wagon
Of course this list is dated.  There is many modern aftermarket kits and parts that will make the 69-74 technology, like bring a knife to a gunfight.   In this blog, I will not dive into better more modern brake systems for two reasons:  At this point I am mainly using a tech article from Classic Chevy World penned by Denny Williams in 1982.  The guy I bought my disc brake system upgraded to the before mention modern system with huge calipers.  He also upgraded to 22 inch wheels.  I want to keep my vintage reverse 15”-chrome wheels and stay true to my car’s theme.  I want my car to look like the car I would have made and had in the early 70’s if I were able to do so.  Therefor, my 69-72 Chevelle system parts I purchased fits that goal very well.  My car is a driver.  I have neither the money or inclination to make it a 1000 point car, that I’m afraid to drive.  I’ll keep my car around 750 points and drive her everywhere.  From the stock ‘57 brakes to 69-72 Chevelle brakes will still be a major improvement.
This I am glad I found out about:
It is difficult or even impossible to bleed the system of a Tri-five with an installed dual master cylinder.  It seem the bleeder valves on the calipers are point down, this trends to trap air.  To solve this problem the calpers must be switched from one side to the other, side.  In this position the bleeder valve will be correctly facing up.  Unfortunately your original brake hoses cannot be used if this is done.  To fix this problem involve making a hose out of various fittings and steel braided lines which can be purchased. Denny put together a kit that contains two special brake hoses and two swivel bolts, sometimes called banjo bolts for banjo fittings.  Denny lists the kit as #20-30.  I will have to research this banjo thing and get back to you.  
I must digress.  This blog is only a simi-how to Tech article. In reality the blog is my research up to this time.  I am by far no expert in Automotive Technology.  I can research and if I have instructions I can make things go together and work.  But there is so much information out there to absorb and learn for such a complicated upgrade I fall back into old habits.   I find that I can only remember and understand half of a tech article before I dive into the rebuild project.  As you can imagine knowing half can be frustrating if not dangerous. My trick is to research, then think and write about what the research.  Many of the projects I will complete on my hobby car I will only do once.  I have car club friend who for all practical purposes has worked on Tri-Fives for 40 years.  He has done so many things to Tri-Fives, so many times he can skim or not even read instructions and make the project seem easy.  Kinda like watching golf on TV.  “It looks so easy,” I said, When I looked for my golf ball in weeds, over the fence in the farmer field next to the golf course.  I learned from my father, with 42 years of teaching experience, that the best way to learn something is to be forced to teach someone else about it!

I will now switch to a Super Chevy Brak Conversion at :  https://docs.google.com/document/d/1LIRsEYgPU8RuPqZgliXAchs5Ga1OFcG8rAdl3yDqE8Y/edit
Classic Chevy World goes off on dual master cylinders at this point.  I on the other hand want to learn and write about putting on the front wheel discs.
The web posting on Super Chevy says, “It used to be that retrofitting discs onto to a older car meant scouring the junkyards for ‘70 disc brake cars to rob of spindles, calipers, MC, etc.  Well in 2014 we don’t have to do that anymore.  Thanks to companies like Classic Performance Products (CPP), installing disc brakes on a vintage Bow Tie is easier than ever…
I next went to web page The World of DacukusCrapus.com specifcially: http://www.duckuscrapus.com/Tri-5_Chevy_Tech.html


Posted on this page was:
If you have purchased one of the many aftermarket brackets for converting to disc brakes, you can use this information.  Besides your brackets you can get these parts at a parts store or an auto salvage.  The page list the same list as above, however here is some more than useful information about new wheel bearings.
It also uses the stock inner and outer wheel bearings associated with these rotors (Bower/BCA A2 and A6) Calipers:   
Buick           '76-'77 Apollo, '73-'76 Skylark, '77 Regal
Oldsmobile '73-'76 Cutlass, '75-'77 Omega
Cadillac       '75-'77 Seville
Chevy         '70-77 Camaro, '73-76 Chevelle, '73-'77 Monte Carlo, '77 Nova, '71-'77 El Camino
Pontiac       '70-'77 Firebird, '73-'77 Grand Prix, '75-'77 Ventura
GMC           '71-'77 Sprint      
As follows is  The World of DacukusCrapus.com Tech Instructions.  I will in blue only make minor comments.  When I have completed the upgrade on my car I will come back and add my two cents.  Alan
1.  Remove stock Chevy front brake drums, brakes and backing plates. (The drums come off after taking off the axle nut.) Clean and inspect spindle for cracks and or damage.  Be sure to thoroughly clean out the 5/8 " threaded hole at the top of the spindle-  this is extremely important.  Use a non-oil based cleaner such as trichlorethylene.  Clean the threads out with a bottoming tap is necessary  -  but clean it good.
2.  In order to install the inner bearing you must remove .0004" from the spindle inner bearing seating diameter.  This can be accomplished with 240 grit emery paper (or equivalent) and a rotary sanding motion on the spindle.  This operation must be continued until the inner bearing can be slid onto the spindle without binding.  DO NOT TRY GRINDING OR FILING THE SPINDLE.  It only takes a few minutes with emery paper.  (I replaced my old roller ball some time ago and the sanding went real quick for me to make the new needle bearing to fit correctly.  I didn’t even need to sand them for a proper fit.)
Note:  This procedure must be accomplished on the inner bearing for the 55-57 spindle and on the outer bearing of the 55 spindle only.  (Not the 56-57 they are OK as is).


3.  Once the bearings have been fitted to the spindle, take the small support bracket (see figure) and install it on the outer surface of the spindle in the two lower holes.  Install one of the long (2-3/4") 7/16"-20 bolts through the support bracket, through the rear hole on the spindle and through the stock steering arm.  Install the shorter 7/16" -20 bolt (2-1/4") in a similar manner through the front hole.  Install the locknuts supplied in the kit and tighten.
4.  Take the appropriate caliper bracket (R/H or L/H as marked on the inside of the bracket) and install it as per the figure, and as follows.  Install the 1/2" X 2-1/2" bolt supplied in the kit through the caliper bracket, spacer and support bracket as shown.  Install the 1/2" locknut but do not tighten it yet, just snug it up.
5.  Take the 5/8" X 1" bolt and install it through the bracket into the spindle.  Do not tighten it yet, just snug it up.
6.  Take the GM rotor, clean and inspect it as necessary.  Install the inner bearing (don't forget grease) followed by a national #79345 seal.  This seal is used on 61-68 Chevy cars without disc brakes.  It is readily available at any auto parts store.


7.  Install the rotor on the spindle followed by the GM outer bearing.  Put the bearing retaining washer and nut on the spindle to hold everything in place temporarily.
8.  Turn the rotor on the spindle and check for any interference or minimal clearance between the inside surface of the rotor and the 5/8" upper mount bold.  (This is a judgement call - use your own).  If you feel additional clearance is required, remove the rotor and bolt, and grind the grade markings off the head of the bolt.  (Don't get carried away).  Check for adequate clearance on the 1/2" bolt also.  Reverse it if necessary.
9.  When you have adequate clearance remove the rotor and the 5/8" bolt from the spindle.  Coat the bolt with a few drops of the Loctite solution contained in the kit.  Make sure the threads in the spindle are clean.  Install the bolt and tighten it and the 1/2" bolt previously installed.
10.  Re-check all the bolts for tightness and re-install the rotor and outer bearing.  Install the stock 55-57 Chevy bearing retainer washer followed by the special wheel bearing retaining nut supplied in the kit.  Don't attempt to use the sock bearing nut - the cotter pin hole won't line up.  Adjust the wheel bearings and install the cotter pin.  Check for clearance and freedom of rotation once more.
11.  Install the brake pads and attaching parts in the caliper and install it on the bracket (remember there is a R/H and L/H caliper) using the standard GM caliper mounting bolts.  Tighten bolts to GM recommended torque.


12.  Repeat the procedure for the opposite side.
13.  Connect the brake calipers to the 55-57 Chevy brake lines using a suitable hose that will allow freedom of suspension and steering travel without interference.  Your local auto parts man can help you with this part.
14.  Procure a master cylinder of the dual reservoir disc/drum type.  (assuming you still have drum type rear brakes).  Plumb the master cylinder into the system using the appropriate metering/proportioning block from the vehicle from with you  obtained the brakes.  If you prefer a non-power get a master cylinder from a 70-77 Camaro or equivalent.  If you prefer a power set-up get the appropriate booster and plumbing.  Whatever method you use, DON'T attempt to use the 55-57 cylinder - it won't work.


15.  Fill the system with a suitable brake fluid, bleed it, and check for leaks.


Links to more Power Brake Posts:
Tri-Five Late Model Power Booster Conversion Part 1
Power Booster Conversion Tri-Five Late Model Part 3
Tri-Five Classic Chevy
Proportioning Valve, Dual Master Cylinder and Brake Lines
Brake Pedal Clevis Relocation After A Power Assisted Disc Brake Upgrade on a Tri Five Chevy.
Brake Troubleshooting for Tri Five Chevy/ Disc Retrofit
Front Wheel Alignment



55 Chevy
56 Chevy
57 Chevy





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Saturday, November 28, 2015

57 Chevy Gas Tank Holding Band Repair

57 Chevy Gas Tank

Holding Band Repair



Oh what a Gas!
Railroad Tracks, GoodGuys Car Show and OMG!
     -by Alan Arnell

 Rust damaged trunk deck allows gas tank holding bands to fail, allowing the gas tank to fall out.
...as I pumped in about ten gallons (of gas) when a red Ford screeched to a halt behind my car. A man jumped out and yelled, “Stop! I was chasing you to tell you your gas tank is falling out!”

Every fall North Texas is blessed by having the annual Good Guys Rod and Custom Show held at the Texas Motor Speedway located north of Fort Worth.. The show is a must see for any car enthusiast. I have gone several times over the years and thoroughly enjoyed seeing over 1500 rods, customs and classics, muscle cars at each show in the infield of the Texas Motor Speedway. I also enjoyed checking out the vendors and manufacture exhibits along with the swap meet.
++For a list of North Texas Classic Car Shows CHECK OUT TCCE’s Events Page: LINK ++

 Every fall North Texas is blessed by having the annual Good Guys Rod and Custom Show held at the Texas Motor Speedway located north of Fort Worth.. The show is a must see for any car enthusiast. I have gone several times over the years and thoroughly enjoyed seeing over 1500 rods, customs and classics, muscle cars at each show in the infield of the Texas Motor Speedway. I also enjoyed checking out the vendors and manufacture exhibits along with the swap meet.
Back in the 2002 when I first bought my Chevy I showed my car at the show. The highlight of the event was being able to drive the Chevy three laps around the speedway.
Several years later, I decided I wanted to go to the show as a spectator. It was such a nice day; I decided to take the Chevy, even though I was not going to enter the show. The trip to the speedway was only thirty five miles. I had a half a tank of gas therefore; I decided instead of buying gas on the way, I would buy gas on the way back.
With music blaring out the rear Jensen speakers over the roar of the dual exhausts, I am grinning ear to ear from my drive though the country in my Classic Chevy.
Being able to drive the Chevy on the trip to the speedway, in itself, was an enjoyable event. When I started, I had to make a decision between two different routes to drive to the show. For fun of it, I chose going through Flower Mound, driving on Farm to Market Road 1171. After you get out of the city limits of Flower Mound the road at that time was a pleasing two lane winding blacktop. With music blaring out the rear Jensen speakers over the roar of the dual exhausts, I am grinning ear to ear from my drive though the country in my Classic Chevy. Mostly, I drive in the city so, getting out in the countryside at highway speeds was extremely enjoyable. I looked at the usual sites, the ‘Tour 18’ golf course, horse farms and lakes and trees as I navigated the horse country road. One exceptionally fun activity is driving fast over a set of railroad tracks, jumping them, along the way. Every time I jump them, I swear I am lifting all four wheels off the pavement.
When I drive my Chevy anywhere it is always an adventure. I never know what is going to break or fall off. However, my tip to the track was uneventful and pleasurable. I found a great spot in the front row of the parking lot and made my own mini car show, rolled up the windows then walked into the speedway for several hours of contentment at GoodGuys Rod and Custom Car Show DFW.
Cool link to the 2016 GoodGuys Rod & Custom Association Schedule: FULL THROTTLE FUN!!
Having had all I could absorb, I finally called it a day and headed out of the show. I must have walked five miles at least that day. I made an effort to see every row of show cars and vendor booths. Finally, I arrive back at my parking spot. I jumped into the Chevy and headed for the house.  For added adventure,  I decided to take another route home.  Not 2 miles into the return trim I noticed my gas gage was indicating  just under a quarter of a tank of fuel, the danger zone! My route to the show however enjoyable was lacking in gas stations. Consequently, I decide to take Highway 114 through Grapevine. After crossing Highway 35 West a nice large gas station loomed into view. Without enough gas to get home, I pulled into the station for some go juice. 
The tank was, as we say in Texas, “catawampus”
Nonchalantly, I pulled up to the pumps and inserted the pump nozzle. Humming the last song I listened on my car’s radio, I had pumped in about ten gallons, when a red Ford screeched to a halt behind my car. A man jumped out and yelled, “Stop! I was chasing you to tell you your gas tank is falling out. I tried to tell you sooner but, I got caught at the traffic light.”  Immediately, I stopped the flow of gas from the pump to step back for a quick look under my car. Sure enough, one of the tank’s straps was completely off the tank and dragging on the ground. The tank was, as we say in Texas, “catawampus” or, hanging half out at a forty five degree angle.  I can not tell you what first came out of my mouth,  but I will say I thanked my Good Samaritan.
I pulled the car over to the side of the station lot to survey the situation. My first thought was what happened? It must have been the railroad tracks! My second thought was I can fix it.
I crawled under the rear of the Tri-Five Chevy. Luckily, I the car is jacked up in the rear making for enough room for me without jacking the car up. Lying under the car I begin to start shoving the tank back into its proper position. The tank was hard to maneuver since it had at least twelve gallons of fuel in it. If you do not know, gas weighs around 6 pounds a gallon therefore, I am pushing around seventy pounds of gas tank. Despite the fact; that I am at my bench press limit, I still managed to just get the tank almost back into position.  Suddenly!  To my horror  the whole fuel tank comes crashing out to land on my chest with a wet thud.
You never know how fast you can move until seventy pounds of gas tank falls on you, spewing flammable liquid out of the now exposed filler neck all over you. I wiggle out from under the tank and roll out from under the car to notice that gas is pouring everywhere. Without thinking about the danger, I drug the tank over the concrete parking lot to prop it up on a curb to keep the gas from pouring out of the tank.  My Guarding Angel was watching over me that day!
Soaked with smelly gasoline, I then just stood there panting, and staring in a daze at the train wreck that had just happened. My car sat without a gas tank, the tank was out on the pavement propped up on a six inch curb, after spilling half its contents. A major gas spill covered the pavement, luckily spreading away from the Chevy. I was soaked with gas and could not move from fear and dismay. I did not know what to do next.  I guess the rush of adrenaline of having to speed crawl out from under the car with the possibility of burning to death had used me all up.
As I stood like a statue, a guy, I would later find was from Pennsylvania, came up to me saying, “Looks like you are having a little trouble?” Shaking out of my stupor, I said, “My gas tank just fell out.” My this world Guarding Angel said, “I’m a mechanic. My dad has had several old Chevys. Working on them with him was what got me interested in being a mechanic for a living.” As I got out some tools we talked about how his wife was visiting Dallas for training and he had tagged along. We lifted and strapped the tank back into place.  Finished, we shook hands as I told him I could not have fixed my car without him.
To make a long story short, the tank came loose again the next day. I put new straps on to then find that the trunk deck was rusted out.  I do not know General Motors engineers were thinking when the use the trunk floor pan for a fastening point for the gas tank and the rear wheel shock absorbers.   I had to replace much of the steel trunk deck to strengthen the area that secured the gas tank supports.
Having a classic car gives me faith in humanity. My old Chevy has broken down several times. Each time I have had new friends and current friends stop by to help me out of my predicament. Classic cars have that effect on people.

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Friday, November 27, 2015

Candy the Dandy 57 Chevy

Candy the Dandy 57 Chevy
-by Alan Arnell
Picture, a gleaming-hot rodded-candy apple red ‘57 chevy with yellow and orange flames pulled to a stop at a normal urban intersection.  Invariably, in neighboring cars, normal rationally-sane people are possessed to yell out lowered car windows at the car and its owner, “Hey!  Nice car!”  Many of those same individuals wave like they have lost his or her minds.  The car’s owner Alan Strong either bragging or complaining tells, “One of the reasons I installed air conditioning on the car was to keep from jumping out of my skin every time an exuberant admire yells at me at a stop light.  The admiration does not stop at traffic signals; several times Alan has almost been run off the road because people want him to know how much they love his car.  The startling display of affection is an experience certainly unique to Alan, yet maybe not unique to most classic car owners.
The 1957 Chevrolet’s universal appeal may have something to do with the numerous displays of affection, however the 1970’s hot rod styling does not hurt. The car is a survivor from another time that brings back good memories in some and and new good feelings in others.
Using DMV records and previous owner testimony to learn the ‘57 in question’s history, Alan found the car was hot rodded/restored in the mid to late 1970’s.  The ‘57 was hot rodded with all that was vogue during that decade, except metal flake paint by a father for his son.  The man’s son drove the car his senior year of high school.  He must like the car very much or was very mobile, since 30,000 miles were registered on the odometer during that year.  



After that fateful year of youthful exuberance, the car basically remained the same untouched by new styles and trends of the 1980’s and  1990,s.  Alan said, “The best I can tell is that the car was built as a hot rod not as a restoration project.” Under inspection, the car represents the trends of the 1970’s completed by a loving father for his son.  The original blue flame straight six engine with a three on the tree standard transmission was removed for a more sportier set up.  Besides the customary 1970’s wider 60-series tires, mag wheels and air shocks the car was gives many serious upgrades, that must have been the envy of many a high schooler.  



Candy was fitted with a stroked and bored 350.  To enhance shifting power a Borg Warner four speed with a Hurst shifter was installed.  To use the increased cubic inches of the now 383 a aluminum high rise intake manifold was installed topped with a 750 Holley Double Pumper.  To release the engine’s back pressure, headers were installed instead of exhaust manifolds. Dual exhaust pipes with glass pack mufflers ended the cars upgrades.  There was no billet on the car, since it really had not been invented yet.  As were the thoughts of the day, all the modifications were placed in making the car fast.  The brakes were left alone.  Who needed to stop anyway?

Candy was fitted with a stroked and bored 350.
The topper to the whole hot rodding was an extraordinary candy apple red paint job, along with wild yellow and orange flames. The interior was modestly restored with the same color scheme as the original, however cloth was used instead of the factory vinyl.  



Candy remained in its 1970’s high school boy configuration for the next twenty years.  Alan has owned her for the last fifteen years.  Alan said, “When I took ownership the ‘57 was in need of help mechanically.  To make the car more usable in Dallas traffic I upgraded the steering box to a power 605.  The front suspension received new bushing and ball joints. The undercarriage had rust problems and had many floor panels and braces replaced.  The stock rear differential  took a dump and was replaced with a newer 10 bolt with  Posi-Traction.  No more one wheel peel outs.’
Alan added, “Texas is hot.  To get my family to ride with me I installed an aircondition system.  The help the AC keep the inside cool from searing heat drafts, tinted window and window guides were installed.  To also help the cooling action and dampen the roaring exhaust, the whole car was insulated.”

To make the car more usable in Dallas traffic...
Alan finished with, “My car is a 30-30.  She looks real good at 30 feet or going by at 30 miles and hour.”  With that being said, the fine 1970’s craftsmanship still draws attention, a testament to the styling trends of the time of her creation and the love of a father for his son and Hot Rodding.   



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Thursday, November 26, 2015

Power Booster Front Disc Conversion Tri-Five Late Model Part 1



Tri-Five Late Model Power Booster Conversion
By Alan Arnell
My next upgrade to my Candy Apple Red ’57 Chevy-150 will be a master cylinder upgrade and front wheel disc brakes. Today I will start with presenting my research on the Booster Conversion. I would ask why do they call them brakes, because when you step on the brake pedal nothing breaks. However, with a 58 year old car with original equipment you cannot be 100 percent certain they will not break.



My ’57 is equipped with a single brake master cylinder. Now, I am a purest at heart and wish for my car to be true to its period correctness. With that being said, I have to come to the realization that I live in a large Metroplex. In the Dallas and Fort Worth-North Texas region; traffic may not be as bad as in other parts of the world, but it is bad enough to warrant a modern braking system. Where I live the main problem is that you will be going 70 MPH on a clear roadway to run up on cars suddenly going 25 MPH. After driving new cars with new car brakes; I will have to admit, that I am now spoiled with this new fangled mechanical advantage equipment.  Too many times I have been forced to make a scary-panic stops with my 1950’s breaking technology. More than once fear has cut through my chest like an ice pick from the perceived sensation of not being able to stop in time with the fully functioning stock ’57 drum-non power brakes in my ‘57.  Function in this case outweighs form.

Do not get me wrong, Tri-Five Chevys had excellent brakes by the standard of their day. In the late 50’s you didn’t need much braking. However, that day has passed into a fond memory. Today’s driving requirements in a urban city would be better suited with a more efficient and arguably a safer brake system.
Tri-Five’s were designed with a single (piston) master cylinder (MC). A leak in that system’s brake plumbing happening anywhere on the car could render all four wheels completely inoperable. The parking brake in the car back in that day was called the emergency brake for a reason. The manual emergency brake, if you were lucky, was your sole means of backup to any hydraulic brake failure. Brake failure was not all that uncommon back in the day with a single MC. When I was taught how to drive in 1974, dealing with brake failure and what to do to keep yourself alive was an important issue.
With a tandem system, that most of us commonly referred as a dual cylinder, has two pistons instead of one piston operating in tandem, one after another, in a common bore. By placing dual pistons in the MC the catastrophic effects of a failure is minimized. The tandem MC will isolate the effect of a leak to the subsystem, allowing either front or rear to provide partial braking power until you can pull over to the side of the road. So, in short, I am saying a leak in the front will not affect the the rear system. As you can see, the tandem system is safer. Engineers have learned a thing or two through the years to make newer brakes better.
Through the internet and an article in Classic Chevy World Magazine, by Denny Williams, I have researched how to update the single cylinder MC to a Power Booster MC.
You may purchase the whole kit at Danchuk, eBay , etc.  I will give the parts suggestions from the articles written in 1984. Things are not the same now as then, but the items listed may give you a place to start while looking for parts for your upgrade.

 With a Tri-Five Chevy, I believe, most people would want to have smaller diameter style booster. I think around 9 inches would look the best. I personally prefer that the MC be placed flush against the firewall.
Some MC units have large diameter boosters that are tilted with a bracket holding the MC away from the Fire wall. I have been told; beside the bad ascetics of that type of unit, that type of setup requires quite a bit of modification to install. I have chosen a flush system
Denny Williams suggests a smaller flush unit from a 1966 Corvette. The setup I will write about is a dual diaphragm vacuum booster. The booster is 9 inches in diameter and is 6 inches in overall length. Size is always important when you put an upgrade on a Tri-Five when the car was not designed for the non stock part or system you might want to install. Still, no matter how much you plan, there will be issues with the building process, size wise.  I have found that whenever the measurements are if not checked prior to instillation there will be a problem. But, that is part of the fun, right?


The unit from the ’66 'Vette will fit on any Tri-Five Chevy as long as it is fitted with the standard brake system. Those of you who have an original Treadle-Vac power brake system will need to change the pedal harness setup to make the conversion.
As always,  Denny Williams suggest that anyone considering this installation should read through the complete article before determining if this system is what you want.
The reason I wish to install a vacuum booster it to reduce the effort required when applying the brakes. The idiom of, “Stand on the breaks!” started because in days past your leg power was the major power source used to apply brake pressure. My dad really liked our family ‘57’s breaks in the 1960’s, because he had had a ’32 F@$d back in his day, that only had mechanical brakes. The Tri-Five brakes to him had them fancy new hydraulics that worked much better in getting a 2 ton hunk of iron to a complete stop.



The basic idea behind a vacuum booster is to have atmospheric pressure and engine vacuum do the work for you instead of your size number 10 shoes. The dual ’80’s mid size GM “A” cars (Monte Carlo, Cutlass, Regal, etc.) have this type of booster. Brand names of MCs of those cars were generally Moraine or Bendix.
There are four basic connections involved in the installation of a vacuum booster.
  1. The mechanical connection between the booster and the master cylinder via a rod.
  2. The vacuum connection between the booster and either the carburetor or the intake manifold, with an 11/32” or 3/8” rubber hose.
  3. The mechanical connection between the booster and the pedal harness with a rod.
  4. And, there are 2 hydraulic connections between the dual master cylinder that the proportioning valve, these are stainless steel tubes with double faired ends and fittings.
The pedal  has a connecting rod to the booster with an eyelet or pressed on yoke. The rod will be 3/8-24 threads. When you get the power brake booster there are other parts you will need. Such as a check valve, which is installed right on the booster; the push rod, which connects the power brake booster and the master cylinder; a vacuum fitting that is either installed into the carburetor the carburetor or the intake manifold. More than likely you will upgrade your brakes to a disc brake set. If you l do so you will need to have a dual master cylinder form a mid-sized GM car with disc brakes. It is best to get a MC for the same car that you got the booster. Some vacuum booster will have a filter between the check valve and vacuum fitting; these were installed by GM to help eliminate moisture from the system.
WARNING: Brake fluid ruins paint. Cover up your fenders and spread lots of rags below the master cylinder.


Bleeding the brakes. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. As the brake bleeding process continues, you will need to keep the bowels of the master cylinder full. DO NOT let them run dry, if you do, you will let air into brake lines and you will need to start the bleeding process all over again. All four wheels will need bleeding. Always start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) and work your way towards the wheel closest to the master cylinder (left front). Caution: spray the wheel cylinder bleeder screws with a rust penetrant the day before to lessen the chance of stripping them. When you have a nice hard brake pedal you can take your next cruise without fear of a catastrophic total brake failure.
Tips: • Use a “ Mighty-Vac”  type tool for bleeding the brakes. It allows you to do the job by yourself. Your friends and family will greatly appreciate this tool as they no longer have to sit behind the steering wheel listening to, “Push……..Let Up” a couple thousand times.  
This is a good time to pump all the old brake fluid out. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (meaning it collects moisture); this will rust out the insides of the wheel cylinders (common cause of brake failure). Manufactures recommend replacing brake fluid annually, when was the last time you replaced yours? When the fluid runs clear, you have gotten the old junk out.  
SAFETY: Test and re-test all parts of a new power booster brake system before you take you valuable Tri-Five out on the road. When you have finished the install/upgrade everyone including yourself will be very impressed with the way it looks on you Classic Chevy. Denny Williams and I consider this new brake system is one of the best modifications that can be done on a “55-“57 Chevy.
Parts suggestions from the Late Great Chevy Club
  • Master Cyl. 1968 Chevelle (drum/drum)
  • (1) 9/16 to 1/4 Brass Brake Adapter
  • (1) 1/2 to 3/16 Brass Brake Adapter
  • (2) 3/16 X 3/16 Brass Union @ $.79 ea
  • (1) 3/16 Brass Plug
  • (2) 3/16 X 40" Steel Brake Line  
  • (1) 1/4 X 30" Steel Brake Line
Recommended Tools:
  • ½” combination wrench
  • 3/8” x 7/16” brake line wrench
  • Needle nose pliers
  • 2’ -¼” clear tubing to bleed brakes double flare tool
  • tubing cutter
  • file
  • rotary file
  • tubing bender





Tech Steps:

  1. The first step for the MC upgrade is the removal of the brake harness (pedal assembly). The brake harnesses for all three years are basically the same except for the supporting rods that attach to the underside of the dash. The ’55 and ’56 Chevys will have 2 supporting rods which attach to the under-dash. The ‘57’s will have three support rods which connect to the cowl in that are held in place by nuts, which are accessible from the engine side of the cowl. (Assembly Manual Sect 9, Sheet 5.00.-ttp://www.trifive.com/garage/1957%20Chevy%20Index.htm) If you have trouble removing the support rod nearest the fender you may want to remove the light switch and use a ¼-inch drive extension rod and swivel socket to remove the bolt that is securing that rod to the dash. Remember remove all of the support rods from the brake harness.
  2. Remove the four nuts and lock washers securing the master cylinders to the fire wall. Put the parts and all parts in a plastic freezer or lunch bag and label the items in the bag. You would think you would remember where all the parts go and what they do, but you will be surprised when months later when you are again working on your car you cannot remember. If you can, good for you, you are very special and experienced.
  3. Remove the lower steering column housing which is secured by the clutch-head screw right under the instrument cluster. This will expose a bracket that secures the pedal harness to the steering column.
  4. Remove the two nuts securing the bracket which fastens the brake harness to the steering column.
  5. After unplugging the brake light switch at the brake harness, carefully slip the entire brake harness out of the cowl and from under the dash area.
  6. Using a chisel, remove the 4 mushroom headed bolts that are spot welded to the brake harness. These are the bolts which originally held the master cylinder in place. Try to be careful not to destroy the threads on these bolts because you will need to reuse two of them. Wrapping the threads with tape should help. The top two holes of the harness must be enlarged. Drill them out to 13/32 inches or 7/6”.
  7. Remove the original push-rod from the brake pedal by removing the cotter pin and slipping the clevis pin out of the brake pedal. After loosening the locking nut on the assembly, unscrew the rod from the yoke.
  8. Temporarily install the booster onto the brake harness. Use 2 washers over each of the top two studs to represent the proper spacing that will be required when assembly is installed into the car. The upper 2 studs of the booster should be installed through the upper 2 holes of the brake harness, where the mushroom-headed bolts were removed. The brake harness assembly can be placed in a vice so that you can carefully check the required length for the push-rod when it is installed on the brake pedal.
  9. The push rod should be as long as possible without beginning to push the diaphragm of the power brake booster. You can push the threaded rod inward and feel when the pressure will exist. Align the threaded rod beside the installed yoke of the pedal and note exactly where the yoke with tape or a marker should be installed onto the threads for the proper length.
  10. A locking nut should be placed on the threaded rod, and then installed the yoke onto the rod to the premeasured length. Hold the yoke in place then tighten the locking nut up against the yoke.
  11. If by some chance the threaded push-rod is not long enough and additional length is required, then a coupling nut and stud can be used to join the threaded rod/valve assembly to the original brake pedal yoke. More than likely you will never find a 3/8-24 coupling. What you will end up doing is to get a 5/16-18 coupling nut to drill it out to 21/64” and tap it with a 3/8-24 threads. Along with this coupling nut, you will need a 2” long threaded rod in 3/8-24 which can be used as an extension. Remember a locking nut is required against the yoke and against each side of the coupling nut. What that  assembly accomplishes is to increase the length of the rod. The studs of the booster and the holes on the firewall may not line up. Make a paper template or the stud pattern and transpose onto the fire wall. I would check the measurements at least three times. Carefully mark the holes on the cowl, so that the spacing will coincide with the four studs of the power booster.
  12. Draw parallel lines along the edges for the existing 4 holes to help with measuring. Check the sizes of the holes to be drilled. The lower hole nearest the center of the cowl should be drilled out. Use a pilot drill before drilling the full size hole.

  13. Using a rat tail file to increase the size of this hole when it comes time for installation. The other I simply will a cut-out of a small amount of metal of the steering column hole in the cowl.
  14. Make sure that the 4 studs protruding out of the booster are parallel to each other. Many times they will end up point outward. Install a couple of nuts and use vice grips to bend them to the proper place. Many power boosters will have metric threads; ensure to use the correct nuts for the job.
  15. Slip the brake harness into position and temporarily install the support rods. These will be tightened into place later.
  16. Two of the mushroom-headed bolts should be installed from the engine side, though the bottom 2 holes of the original four. You may have to tack weld the head slightly to the fire wall to tighten.
  17. Install washers, lock washers, and the nuts on the two mushroom-headed bolts. Tightening into position.
  18. Use a washer as a spacer between the booster and the cowl so the booster is not in direct contact with the entire surface of the booster. This will help protect paint on the fire wall. Originally most boosters had a thin rubber gasket over the complete contacting surface.
  19. Along with the washer/spacer install the power booster through the 4 holes in the cowl, making sure that the booster is in the popper orientation. Slip the push-rod yoke over the pedal as you are placing the booster into position. The check valve, where vacuum line will be connected, should be towards the top of the booster.
  20. From under the dash install the washers, lock washers and nuts over the four studs from the booster.  Tighten into place.
  21. Install the pin through the yoke and pedal, and then secure it in place with a cotter pin.
  22. Tighten the support rods, not only the brake harness, but also the dash or cowl depending on the year of the car.
  23. Install the harness/steering column bracket underneath the instrument cluster.
  24. Install the lower steering column housing which covers the bracket.
  25. The vacuum systems on some cars were attached to the intake of the manifold between the carburetor and distributor. This was done with a fitting that screwed into the intake manifold. A stainless steel tube with fitting was screwed into the manifold fitting. A section of 3/8” rubber hose connects the tube to the check valve. Some fittings hand additional outlets for the transmission kick down.
  26. Most power brake boosters have the vacuum fitting which attaches to the bottom of the carburetor, on the back side. Whatever you use ensure there are no leaks at the fitting or at either end of the hose.
  27. The hose should be installed on the nylon check valve at the booster. Use hose clamps to stop vacuum leaks.


  28. Install the pushrod between the booster and MC making sure that it is the proper length. The proper length is a rod which is as long as possible, without activating the master cylinder attached to the booster, and then you should not have to worry about its length. When the master cylinder is secured in place, neither the master cylinder nor the booster should be activated by the push rod between them. If either is activated, the rod is too long
  29. Slip the dual master cylinder over the two studs of the vacuum booster. Install the proportioning if you install disc brakes. Install the proportioning valve bracket, so do install the washers and nuts at this time.
  30. Install the proportioning valve bracket before you secure the master cylinder to the booster. Thus the order of items would be: booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve bracket, washer, lock washer and nut.
  31. Bench bleed the MC and the complete brake system. Again test your work before you take your car for a ride.
This project will help the breaking power of your loved vehicle tremendously.
Links to more Power Brake Posts:
Power Booster Conversion Tri-Five Late Model Part 2
Power to the Front
Move to a Dual Purpose MC and Disk Brakes
Front Disc Brakes for a Tri-Five Classic Chevy
Power Booster Conversion Tri-Five Late Model Part 3
Tri-Five Classic Chevy
Proportioning Valve, Dual Master Cylinder and Brake Lines
Brake Pedal Clevis Relocation After A Power Assisted Disc Brake Upgrade on a Tri Five Chevy.
Brake Troubleshooting for Tri Five Chevy/ Disc Retrofit
Front Wheel Alignment
Citations


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